Setting out to travel in a yacht from Darwin to Thursday Island (TI) seems a pretty simple process. In normal circumstances this is the case. Keith set out from Darwin in November with a pleasant cruise in mind. Stopping along the way at Port Essington, that interesting piece of Australian history, the only current residents are crocodiles, and onto Elko Island to top up supplies.
For those whose Australian geography is limited, Elko island is on the western side of the Gulf of Carpenteria, a tiny place but busy enough for basic needs.
Leaving Elko, he pottered by Cape Wessels and set out for TI. So far so good. At this time of the year, the wind is patchy, so an engine to take you through the quiet spots is almost essential.
After a couple of days the engine failed to function – not the end of the world, just inconvenient. And it adds many boring days to a simple journey. Boring because sitting with no wind does not really let you catch up on sleep and the domestic jobs on the boat grow tedious.
Having arrived at the middle of the Gulf, one of course can carry on or go back .Going back is a terrible option to a traveller, as who knows what might be the problem when setting out again. Keith was very keen to be at TI – before Christmas – to avoid the cyclones that will certainly be in the area after that date.
But along comes cyclone Jasper to be taken into consideration. A bit early in the season but clearly not impossible. Cyclones do not do anything quickly, so you have time to make reasoned decisions and 1200 km off the coast is a fair way off.
Text message Monday 4 December 4:30pm:
GG (Gerald Garrett): Tropical low near Townsville. 75% chance of cyclone strength by 11 December – fair way distant but you never know.
KRG (Keith Garrett): I’ve left Elko full of fuel heading for top of Wessels then out East. All is great.
KRG: Cascade of problems last night and this morning the engine stopped. Fuel. So I replace the filters. In the mess I slip and tear out a wire which takes out the entire electronics system. Back to Elko as it’s down breeze and probably can get what I need. Oh, and I did my back.
Significance of electronics failing is that, these days, the self-steering and the charts are all electronic. If on your own – no sleep, no rest is unpleasant. And navigating without charts went out with Captain Cook.
KRG: Better facilities at Weipa. I’ve gotta stop and re everything.
GG: Cyclone still on track for north Queensland. Elko is as safe as anywhere.
KRG: Engine just fuel filters but cant pump up the pressure.
GG: When do you think you will get back to Elko?
KRG: 3 days. Actually Wessels has lots of good holes.
GG: Anticipate head winds by Saturday. Wessels sounds good.
KRG: Belay the above just got instruments back. Will try for Weipa. TI here we go.
Is there something in the cyclone makings.
GG: Hard to tell because BOM always cries wolf. So far cyclone headed north of Cairns. Expect drama Sunday.
GG: How is back?
KRG: I’m getting there. Panadol max is excellent. So cyclone expected to pass over FNQ and re-form in the Gulf. Weipa 154 as crow flies Friday night or Sat morning eta.
Something to note about FNQ – Far North Queensland – as anyone knows December is the wet season. If you don’t know a wet season , you have a new experience coming.
KRG: The cyclone in Weipa will have lost its power but by Wessels it might be something else again. Thoughts?
Cape Wessels is an important lighthouse, inasmuch as if you were in a ship of any kind, you would travel to Wessels from Darwin, then along the coast where the light provides a fix for your navigational system as currents could have taken you anywhere..
GG: My first preference is Weipa – if unable – any creek will do. Open sea too risky.
KRG: Lovely and thank you. We are as one.
Text message Friday 8 December 7:20am:
KRG: What do you think the weather will do next 48 hours? I’m still 130m west of Weipa. Strong from east, perhaps even Wessels – Elko and start again. Thoughts? I can hold position if needs be if weather will do anything but east.
GG: Get to Weipa. No virtue in present position or stay on starboard tack and find a creek I think the wind may turn south.
KRG: South would be great still 130m to land but if south no probs. On port tack parallel to coast wind easing but still east.
GG: Cyclone 1200 km off coast, must still be north of you but heading south. Most warnings for Sunday. Monday downgraded a little for the moment as it goes south wind should shift. I hope.
KRG: Starboard tack reaching north will turn east as it allows thank you.
GG: Reaching will not get you to Weipa centre – is still a long way away, get east. Centre is north of you and heading for coast. Expect wind to remain in east today.
GG: It will be very tough going to Weipa. No fresh info on cyclone if wind looks like turning south, will let you know otherwise bash into it no option. If you can knock off 30km today that is the best you can expect without breaking anything.
(Normal cruising daily distance is 110 miles.)
KRG: Heading 123 south east from Weipa.
Open sea. No.
KRG: I am on lay line this time 125 miles 5 knots.
GG: Miracle, keep sail short, don’t break anything. Cyclone must be going south.
Text message Friday 8 December 2.30pm:
KRG: Go for TI or Weipa? I’m thinking Weipa for now just to get motor going Im still working on that btw.
GG: Weipa and stay alive until cyclone passes, nothing as important as reaching shelter and staying there that cyclone is category four and a killer.
KRG: Friday 11.02 becalmed all day still 100 away.
GG: Sat 7.09 am the wind will be back possibly from south you are unlikely to be in the eye just on upper edge, will see what is on internet news – suggests cyclone arrives on coast on Wednesday so that it is slower than first indicated. Forecast for your area light winds about 10km south-east patchy. Jasper is still off coast and slightly south of you. BOM expects may redevelop in Gulf Carpentaria next Friday unlikely to have no wind and then cyclone. Hang in there.
KRG: Will continue to go for Weipa.
GG: Any wind today?
Text message Saturday 9 December 6:39pm:
KRG: Crisis of yesterday over eta dawn be in a few days for rest.
Text message Sunday 10 December 8:24am
GG: Are you in port yet?
KRG: I’m in outer bay awaiting a tow to the east to get in.
GG: Great.
KRG: Safe and sound.
KRG: The locals here say the cyclone will not happen. Relax, I’m on a very good wharf till I leave.
GG: I don’t think the cyclone will cross the land either, worst likely is 150km wind but I would not bet my life on it.
KRG: Well up the mangrove creek 2 anchors plenty of food surrounded by trawlers which is reassuring.
KRG: All is well up the creek. Just staying put.
